Mussoorie Magic
Mussoorie
I love hill stations. Like Ruskin Bond, arguably the most famous resident of Mussoorie puts it, I too, have mountains in my blood, and if you are such a person, Mussoorie will surely stir in you old memories and a nostalgia for half -remembered things. Especially when the mists swirl in as suddenly and unexpectedly as they disappear behind a sun burst on an October afternoon. Or when autumn showers bathe the hills in a constant drizzle that can evoke both melancholia and a delicious coziness.
If you feel the need for human company, you can walk down the Mall and blend in with the throng of honeymooners from Delhi and Chandigarh, the brand new brides boldly braving the chill in skimpy sleeveless chiffons and hanging on to the arms of their warmly muffled husbands, the scruffy firangs lugging their backpacks, the truant students from the many boarding schools in town, Tibetan shopkeepers peddling their wares and the local populace going about their daily business. When you tire you can park yourself on one of the wooden benches that line the Mall and watch the clouds play hide and seek with the mountains and the sky go as wild as an artists palette spilling pink and red and gold over a gray-blue background. And when the sun goes down, you can watch the lights in the valley come out as Dehradun, miles down below glitters like a handful of scattered gems from a Kings ransom.
A pale gold sunset
The best way to explore Mussoorie is to go walking. There are many beautiful walking trails, each with its unique attractions. Take a turn down Camel's Back road and walk the quiet wooded path to emerge at Kulri.There is an old rink with a gallery and soda counter. Its no longer in use but you can hear the ghosts of long dead British mems and sahebs, who once filled up these galleries on evenings tinkling with laughter and music and dance. Or you can walk up Hathi Paon to Cloud's End. The view from there is magnificent and every sunset is a miracle. Or if you choose to go down to Polo Ground, there is a little knob of a hill past the Tibetan school. A hundred prayer flags flutter in the breeze atop this hill. Watching the sun set from this point can send even the most cynical soul meditating on the immensity of the universe.
The best way to explore Mussoorie is to go walking. There are many beautiful walking trails, each with its unique attractions. Take a turn down Camel's Back road and walk the quiet wooded path to emerge at Kulri.There is an old rink with a gallery and soda counter. Its no longer in use but you can hear the ghosts of long dead British mems and sahebs, who once filled up these galleries on evenings tinkling with laughter and music and dance. Or you can walk up Hathi Paon to Cloud's End. The view from there is magnificent and every sunset is a miracle. Or if you choose to go down to Polo Ground, there is a little knob of a hill past the Tibetan school. A hundred prayer flags flutter in the breeze atop this hill. Watching the sun set from this point can send even the most cynical soul meditating on the immensity of the universe.
Deodars in the mist
Sunrises are equally breathtaking, if you can manage to shrug aside the warmth of your blankets in that cozy chill, always a difficult thing to do in a place like Mussoorie. The snow capped Himalayas in the distance and the valleys in between light up like a painting slowly unveiled. The walking trail up to Binog Hill is an exhilarating experience if you have enough of the mountaineer in you to dare its curves and slopes. The tall stately deodars standing like sentinels in the misted woodland with little brooks rushing merrily by makes it worth every ounce of the effort. To top it off, you should definitely get your feet wet in the sparkling clear ice-cold stream water. Nothing is quite as rejuvenating, I assure you!
A view from Landour
Lal Tibba is the highest point from where you can see the entire town spread out, all wreathed in mist like a scene from a dream. At the very top you will find the telescope man who will offer you a birds eye view of the town from his antique contraption for 10 rupees. Not much of a view though, ones better off using one's God given viewfinders to capture the magnificence of the view. Another popular tourist spot that the local taxiwallas will definitely recommend is Kempty Falls. I wouldnt, however, recommend Kempty Falls unless you want to be treated to the sight of pot bellied men stripped to the waist prancing around in the brown waters. Its dirty and crowded and too touristy for my taste.
Wild mountain child
When youre hungry after all that walking, you can go to Rice Bowl at Kulri, just beyond the Mall. The music is always good and the food too.Four Seasons has a vast menu and good service though its slightly more expensive. Taverns specialty is its ambience, the attached bar, and the in house singer who will regale you with anything from Hindi film songs to country music.
Walk up to Landour on a sunny Sunday morning after church, for homemade pizza at Deodars, served on a wooden table covered in red and white checked tablecloth in the open with the wind rustling between the deodars. The walk is through a paved pathway that takes you past old houses with Welsh names and churches and a splendid view of snowy mountains. Round it off with a cup of tea at Char Dukaan and your day is made perfect!!
In the mood for some shopping? Mussoorie isnt exactly a shoppers paradise, but if you want to take something back from here, you can pay a visit to little Tibetan jewelry shop near Tavern. You can choose from a variety of trinkets like coloured stone earrings and semi precious stone bead necklaces, bracelets and chokers. You can also buy colourful knitted sweaters and caps. And not to forget, one of Ruskin Bonds books whose pages you can turn back to later whenever you want to remember the mountains all over again. But best of all take with you a memory of the mountains and the mist, the delicious chill of the air, and the feel of fine rain wetting your face like tears falling from heaven.
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